Luke greets you, beloved physician …)
(Colossians 4:14)
Before talking about the shrines of Cyprus further, you should at least a little share your impressions of the island itself. They say, and indeed it is, that Cyprus was a colony of England. But judging by some circumstances, one might get the impression that he was, and even today continues to be a colony of … Russia. If there are three flagpoles in front of the building, then there is no doubt that one will fly the flag of Cyprus, the other - Great Britain, and the third - Russia! Stores with Russian names, at the entrance to cafes and restaurants announcements “we speak Russian” and we have a “Russian menu”, discounts for wine are offered for Russians. Cypriots speak Russian through one, as well as English, so at least this way, at least that way, and you explain yourself! Cyprus is an ideal place for those who are traveling abroad for the first time and are afraid that they may not be understood there. Where, where, and in Cyprus, a Russian person is always understood and in any condition. Transport on the island is well developed: air-conditioned buses, you can rent both a car and an ATV, in a word, it is convenient to move around the island.
Such a Boeing-747 will take you to the island, flying on which, among other things, is even interesting - it is very big.
The hotels there are different, for every taste and price, but I personally like these more, with houses like bungalows with a separate entrance. This is, for example, Tsokkos Paradise Village on the outskirts of Ayia Napa. But "outskirts" is a relative concept.
In the center is a huge pool. Many foreigners (Germans) swam only here and did not even go to the sea (idiots!). Some in the reviews on the web complain about the poor performance of the Internet. Here … I just want to say: “You did not come here for the Internet, but over the sea, the sun and the beauty of the local temples. Enjoy this, our poor fellow! " You sit here under an umbrella, drink beer, and think - “It's good to live! A good life is even better!"!
Nearby is Nissi Beach and many of these charming lagoons. Well, and wanted "divine", so two kilometers from this hotel right on the seashore there is a chapel and the cave of St. Thekla (Tekla in Greek). As I left the hotel - to the right, to the water park, and then to the sea to the left following the signs! The caretaker of the cave is an elderly Greek who loves to kiss Russian women of Balzac's age; he will gladly show you everything there. The cave, however, is downright disgusting. I don’t understand why one has to live in such a hole in order to gain holiness. True, the beach located a little further is wonderful. And then trudging through the heat and stuffiness there in order to look at the dark, stinking hole is not for everyone. A real "feat of faith!"
By this time, the abundance of Orthodox churches in Cyprus had already caught my eye, I was interested in them, and with it I wanted to visit the most famous and revered monastery in Cyprus in the Troodos mountains …
Troodos Mountains. Kykkos monastery
It is hardly an exaggeration to say that this monastery is the most famous and most crowded with tourists and pilgrims monastery on the island. It was founded for the sake of the miraculous Kykkos Icon of the Most Holy Theotokos, according to legend, written by the holy Apostle and Evangelist Luke himself.
"The road winds like a ribbon, there is no end to the road, there is nothing more needed than brave hearts!" By the way, at the bottom left is one of the main reservoirs of the island. In a drought, it dries up completely and then water is brought to the island by tankers, like our oil.
Bearing in mind that the "main robbers" in Cyprus are Russian travel companies, they bought a tour to the monastery from the Bulgarians. The same Russian guide, the same bus, but "we have" 56 euros per person, and the "brothers" only 26. For four, the savings are very solid.
"Higher and higher and higher!"
On the way to Troodas, we were told the story of this icon for a long time. It is “divine” from beginning to end, and its essence, in short, is that this icon, which had previously been in Constantinople, wished to be in Cyprus, and … in the end it ended up! That is, by hook or by crook, but she achieved her goal! True, the emperor bargained for himself such a condition that the face of the Mother of God on her should now remain closed, so that the worshipers would have greater reverence for her. So today the icon is almost completely covered with a velvet curtain, except for the hands. And who, they say, puts his hands under this veil - they will dry up for that one! Therefore, an ancient sword hangs next to the icon! It inspired me very much and it is clear why - after all, a sword!
However, the first place where tourists are brought … is not a monastery, but a shop of icons and all kinds of divine goods located above it on the mountain. The thought involuntarily creeps in that Mammon is closer to God than the monks actually serving him, but then it disappears, so many beautiful things are exhibited here. Icons, large and small, in silver or even gold frames, healing oil, candles ("it's cheaper here than in a monastery!") - in a word, skill and beauty inevitably creep into the soul. However, they will not fail to remind you that if you bought an icon here, you can consecrate it below! Here, that is, just above the Kykkos Monastery (and still above the store!), Is the grave of Archbishop Makarius, the first president of the Republic of Cyprus, who always has an honor guard.
The monastery is located high in the mountains. Therefore, there is wonderful air and it is very easy to breathe. In addition, pine trees grow around it. But the serpentine that leads there is still the same and there are no concrete fences, nothing! Looking at what pirouettes your bus writes out, inevitably you start that … well, this one. Therefore, you cannot go there without a packet of aeron, well, unless you are a retired pilot or an old sea wolf.
For example, how do you like this icon?
The stories on the way to the monastery are related: here, in one night, the entire Turkish army perished by divine providence (that stench then came from so many thousands of corpses!), Then a certain Cypriot millionaire fell ill with cancer, donated all the money to the monastery, prayed to a veiled image and … was healed, in a word - everything is in the mood!
The prices are quite reasonable. This copy of the Byzantine letter icon costs only 28 euros!
People rush from the store to the monastery. Do you know why they are in a hurry? Because buses with tourists come to him every 20 minutes, and another party of 40-45 people rushes to his entrance.
There are so many people that no matter how hard you try, you won't be able to photograph the entrance to the monastery without them!
Kykkos Monastery is one of the richest monasteries on the island. The church is very richly decorated inside. But tourists are especially attracted by the beautiful gilded mosaics made on the walls of the galleries surrounding the monastery courtyard. Among them - amazingly beautiful mosaic icons, as well as various scenes from the Bible history of the Old and New Testaments.
It is very inconvenient to photograph these mosaic scenes due to the peculiarities of the monastery architecture, but here at least something, but you can see …
In general, in my opinion, everyone has long known that women should enter the temple of God with their heads covered and shoulders closed, as well as in a long skirt, well, and men should change shorts to trousers. But since the majority of tourists from the heat and serpentine brains work with difficulty, and many of them simply never had, they do not remember about these rules. But the monastic brethren, "meeting the wishes of the working people," made it easier for all the forgetful to enter the monastery roof: at the entrance, everyone dressed out of order is offered … beautiful purple terry robes with a hood that hide both shoulders and shorts. And all the "bare-shouldered" and "bare-legged" tourists and tourists at once become like the well-behaved pilgrims of the time of St. Elena!
In the center of the photo you can see how one lady is wrapping herself in this purple robe!
Nowhere else have I met such smiling and welcoming monks, who, in addition, are so willing to take pictures with tourists.
We entered the church, where the hung icon is displayed. And there … there was a queue, like we had in the late 80s for sausage. True, it moves quickly. The guide explains, “You have thirty seconds. Look at the icon, venerate it, then turn to the monk, receive a cotton swab with holy oil from the lamp in front of the icon and move on. " The guide continues: “The monastery was founded in 1100, here is the Kykkos icon, its face is covered. Pay attention to the chandeliers: the third and fifth of them were donated to the monastery by Nicholas II in such and such a year. " Overhead, the crowd really hangs chandeliers, one more beautiful than the other. I look closely, and on one of them there is an inscription: "Brought as a gift by the All-Russian Emperor Nicholas II and the Empress … in the summer of 1902 …" That is, they were here and they brought her. It is possible that the sovereign and the empress stood here and prayed in front of this icon. They asked the Lord for something … But they got the year 1917 and the basement … Y-yes!
This is what this holy icon looks like!
Next to the icon is not a sword, but some kind of souvenir dagger. And instead of a severed, dried hand - as I hoped - a brush carved out of wood. I didn't feel the ecstasy standing in front of the curtain. Then the monk thrust the fleece into us one by one and said in Russian: “It will dry up - just burn it! Do not throw away! Headache - rub it!"
We did not get to the museum of the monastery in time.
They took it in the evening, when my daughter had a headache from the heat and stuffiness - rubbed it. First one. Then all the others were oiled and after half an hour the head passed. After the very visit, they again shoved into the bus - the group is given 40 minutes for the whole excursion, and drove on - to feast in some mountain cafe, drink local wines and buy silver and lace. By the way, there are other monasteries in the same place in the mountains: the Monastery of the Mother of God Trooditissa, the Monastery of the Mother of God Trikukkya, where they are sure to treat themselves to tea, bread and delicious jam, which the sisters prepare themselves, but we did not get here, as well as in the temple of the saint. Martyr Moors. It is necessary to specially travel to mountain monasteries and temples.
